The Foldpic field guide / Zine
How to fold an 8-page zine from one sheet of paper
An 8-page zine is made from one sheet of paper folded in half three times, with a single cut along the centre crease through the middle two panels. Push the two ends together so the slit opens, then wrap the panels around the cover and you have a booklet with no staples or glue.
Zine guide · 5 min read · Updated
What you are making
The 8-page one-sheet zine (also called a mini zine, foldy zine, one-cut zine or PocketMod) is the most common zine format in the world. One A4 or US Letter sheet, printed on one side only, becomes a booklet with a front cover, six inside pages and a back cover. Each page is one eighth of the sheet: about 74 by 105 mm on A4, or 2.75 by 4.25 inches on Letter.
The format is popular because it needs nothing but scissors. There is no stapling, no gluing and no double-sided printing, which means no registration problems on home printers. The whole thing takes about five minutes once the sheet is printed, and the folding is the same whether you are making a comic, a poetry zine or a pocket photo album.
- 1 sheet of paper, 80 to 120 gsm
- Scissors or a craft knife
- A ruler, bone folder or the edge of a table to sharpen creases
How the pages sit on the sheet
Before you fold anything, look at the printed sheet in landscape. It is a grid of four columns and two rows. The bottom row, reading left to right, holds pages 8, 1, 2 and 3 the right way up. The top row holds pages 7, 6, 5 and 4, all printed upside down. That is not a mistake: those panels flip over during the fold, so they have to be rotated 180 degrees on the sheet for the finished zine to read correctly.
If you are laying a zine out by hand this is the part that trips people up. Foldpic arranges the panels automatically from the same fold script it uses to draw the instructions, so the printed layout and the folding steps can never disagree. If you are working in another tool, fold a blank sheet first, number the pages while it is folded, then unfold it and copy the positions.
The fold, step by step
The diagrams below use the standard origami line conventions: dashed lines are valley folds (the crease points toward you), dash-dot lines are mountain folds, and the solid red line with the scissors is the only cut. Panel numbers are drawn as they appear on the printed sheet, rotated where the print is rotated, so you can check your sheet against the picture at every step.
1Print the sheet. Print one side. The top row is upside down on purpose.
2Fold in half the long way. Fold in half the long way, printed side out.
3Fold in half, then in half again. Fold in half, then in half again. Open it out.
4Cut the slit. Cut along the centre crease through the middle two panels only.
5Push the ends together. Fold long-ways again, then push both ends toward the middle.
6Collapse into a booklet. Wrap the panels round so page 1 is on top. Done.
- Guided folding
Print the sheet
One page, landscape, 100% scale. Half the panels print upside down — that is correct.
You should now see: Page 1 (your cover) is bottom row, second from the left, the right way up.
Show all steps as a printable checklist
You will need
- 1 sheet of paper
- scissors or a craft knife
- a ruler or the edge of a table for creasing
1.Print the sheet
One page, landscape, 100% scale. Half the panels print upside down — that is correct.
You should now see: Page 1 (your cover) is bottom row, second from the left, the right way up.
2.Fold in half the long way
Printed side out. Bring the top edge down to the bottom edge and crease hard.
3.Fold in half, then in half again
Fold the strip left-to-right, crease, then fold each half back on itself so you get four equal panels (a W shape). Unfold everything.
You should now see: You should see three vertical creases and one horizontal crease.
4.Cut the slit
Fold in half the long way again (printed side out). Cut along the centre crease from the folded edge, through the middle two panels only. Stop at the second crease.
You should now see: Open it up: there is a slit in the very middle of the sheet, two panels long.
5.Push the ends together
Fold the sheet in half the long way, hold both ends, and push them toward the middle. The slit opens into a diamond.
6.Collapse into a booklet
Keep pushing until the four arms meet, then fold them around so the cover (page 1) is on top. Crease the spine.
You should now see: Flip through: pages 1 to 8 in order, all the right way up.
Common mistakes
- Pages are in the wrong order after folding
- The slit is in the wrong place. It must run along the centre crease through the middle two panels only.
- White border and folds that miss the panels
- The print was scaled. Reprint at 100% / "Actual size".
- Cover ends up on the inside
- Wrap the arms the other way in step 6.
Print settings that matter
Print on one side only, landscape, at 100 percent or “Actual size”. Never choose “Fit to page”: it shrinks the image into the printer's printable area and shifts the centre, so the folds no longer land on the panel edges and you get a white border around everything. Most home printers cannot print right to the edge of the paper (the unprintable margin is typically 2.5 to 7.6 mm), which is why the outer panels of a mini zine have a small white frame unless you use borderless mode on photo paper.
Plain 80 gsm copy paper works and folds crisply. If the zine has heavy photos on both faces of a panel, 100 to 120 gsm hides show-through better and feels more like a book. Anything above about 160 gsm gets hard to collapse in step 5, because the eight layers stack up at the spine.
If something went wrong
Pages in the wrong order almost always mean the slit is in the wrong place. It must run along the centre crease and only through the middle two panels; if it goes all the way across, you have two strips, not a zine. A white border and folds that miss the panel edges mean the print was scaled, so reprint at 100 percent. If the cover ends up on the inside, wrap the arms the other way in the final step: the zine has two possible collapses and only one puts page 1 on top.
When in doubt, sacrifice one sheet as a blank practice dummy. Fold it without printing, number the pages with a pen while it is closed, then open it out and compare with the printed layout. It takes a minute and settles every question about orientation.
Questions people ask
Do I need to print on both sides?
No. The 8-page zine is printed on one side only. The back of the sheet ends up hidden inside the folds.
Why are some panels printed upside down?
The top row of panels flips over when the sheet is folded, so they are rotated 180 degrees on the sheet to read correctly in the finished zine.
Can I make it bigger?
Yes. Print the same layout on A3 or Tabloid (11 by 17 inch) paper and each page becomes A6 or 4.25 by 5.5 inches, twice the area of the A4 version.
Does it need a staple?
No. The single slit and the way the panels wrap around each other hold it together. Some people leave a tiny uncut tab at one end of the slit so it holds even more firmly.
What if my page count is not 8?
This format is always 8 pages. For more pages use a stapled booklet, which takes any multiple of 4 from 8 to 32 pages.
Related guides
- Zine folding guide with diagrams: every fold, every line, explainedA visual zine folding guide: how to read fold diagrams (dashed valley, dash-dot mountain, solid cut), why to fold a blank dummy first, and every step.
- Actual size vs fit to page: why scaling ruins zines and booklets“Fit to page” shrinks your print and shifts the centre so folds miss the panels. Why it happens, the 100 mm ruler check, and the setting to use.
- Mini zine on A4 vs US Letter: sizes, differences and which to pickA4 and Letter mini zines are not interchangeable. Panel sizes for A4, Letter, A3 and Tabloid, why proportions differ, and which paper to pick.
- Printing a zine at a copy shop vs at home: what to ask forWhat to tell the copy shop (100 percent, single-sided, landscape, 100 to 120 gsm), typical costs, and when your own printer is the better choice.